Hardwood flooring

Installation

• Solid and engineered hardwood: white oak, red oak, maple, walnut
• Straight plank, wide plank, herringbone and chevron layouts
• Stairs: treads, risers, handrails and balusters to match the floor
• Site-finished or prefinished, your choice of stain and sheen
• Old flooring removed, subfloor checked and leveled first

Refinishing

• Sanding to bare wood with dust-containment equipment
• Board repairs and replacements
• Stain tested on your floor before we commit
• Two to three coats of water-based or oil-based finish
• Screen-and-recoat for floors that just need a refresh

Refinish or replace?

Solid hardwood can be sanded several times over its life, so scratches, wear paths, water spots or a color you don't like usually mean refinishing, not replacing. Cupped or buckled boards, thin engineered floors that can't take another sanding, or a room with no hardwood at all mean a new install. We tell you which at the site visit.

Finishes and color

Water-based finish dries fast, stays clear and has low odor, which matters if you're living in the house. Oil-based gives a warmer amber tone and takes longer to cure. Lighter, natural-looking white oak is what most people ask for right now; we put samples on your actual floor before choosing.

Timeline

A refinish is usually three to five days. A new install runs one to two weeks depending on square footage and pattern; herringbone takes longer than plank. You get a day-by-day schedule, including when you can walk on the floors and move furniture back.

Common questions